{"id":181041,"date":"2021-05-10T14:38:06","date_gmt":"2021-05-10T14:38:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/facfox.com\/news\/?p=181041"},"modified":"2021-05-10T14:38:06","modified_gmt":"2021-05-10T14:38:06","slug":"casting-skateboard-wheels-with-a-3d-printed-mold","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/news\/casting-skateboard-wheels-with-a-3d-printed-mold\/","title":{"rendered":"Casting Skateboard Wheels with a 3D Printed Mold"},"content":{"rendered":"

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We\u2019ll admit that most of us wouldn\u2019t get too far on a skateboard, but that doesn\u2019t mean we can\u2019t appreciate the impressive DIY wheels that [Chris McCann] has managed to cast using 3D printed molds<\/a>. From unique color combinations to experimental materials, the process certainly opens up some interesting possibilities for those looking to truly customize their rides. Though it\u2019s worth noting there\u2019s a certain element of risk involved; should a set of homemade wheels fail at speed, it could go rather poorly for the rider.<\/p>\n

Both the STL and STEP files for the mold have been released under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license, meaning anyone with a 3D printer can follow along at home. Unfortunately, it\u2019s not quite as simple as clicking print and coming back to a usable mold. Because of the layer lines inherent to FDM 3D printing, the inside of the mold needs to be thoroughly sanded and polished. [Chris] mentions that printing the mold in ABS and using vapor smoothing might be a workable alternative to elbow grease and PLA, but he hasn\u2019t personally tried it yet.<\/p>\n

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Once you\u2019ve got the three part mold printed, smoothed, and coated with an appropriate release agent like petroleum jelly, it\u2019s time to make some wheels. The core of each wheel is actually 3D printed from PETG, which should give it pretty reasonable impact resistance. If you have access to a lathe, producing aluminum cores shouldn\u2019t be too difficult either. With the core loaded into the mold, urethane resin is poured in through the top until all the empty space is filled.<\/p>\n

But you\u2019re not done yet. All those little air bubbles in the resin need to be dealt with before it cures. [Chris] puts his filled molds into a pressure chamber, though he mentions that vacuum degassing might also be a possibility depending on the urethane mixture used. After everything is solidified, the mold can easily be taken apart to reveal the newly cast wheel.<\/p>\n

While there\u2019s often some trial and error involved, 3D printing and resin casting are an undeniably powerful combination. If you can master the techniques involved, you can produce some very impressive parts that otherwise would be exceptionally difficult to produce on a hacker\u2019s budget. Especially when you\u2019re ready to start casting molten metal.<\/p>\n