{"id":166090,"date":"2020-11-11T06:49:28","date_gmt":"2020-11-11T06:49:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/facfox.com\/news\/?p=166090"},"modified":"2020-11-11T07:33:23","modified_gmt":"2020-11-11T07:33:23","slug":"how-to-model-3d-print-a-trophy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/news\/how-to-model-3d-print-a-trophy\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Model & 3D Print A Trophy"},"content":{"rendered":"

If you have an award to give, nothing will look better than having a custom-made trophy with names printed in place. Not only will it be one of a kind, and therefore special, it\u2019ll also be purpose-fit to the occasion!<\/p>\n

In this article, we\u2019ll go over how to make a 3D printable trophy, from modeling the basic shapes to coating it with a shimmering shine. Before that, however, we\u2019ll first take a look at some impressive examples of 3D printed trophies.<\/p>\n

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If you\u2019ve already got a design ready to go but don\u2019t have the means to make it yourself, we suggest trying a 3D printing service. Through FacFox’s online 3D printing service<\/a>, you\u2019ll find a wide variety of materials and finishes at your disposal. When it comes down to it, a trophy\u2019s job is to look special and last forever, and you can be guaranteed of both when you use a professional service.<\/p>\n

Let’s get started!<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

The above examples show that it doesn\u2019t matter whether the design is simple or intricate. It can be of any form, whether an everyday object or something abstract. The only requirement is that it should be pleasing to the eye. To achieve this, we can break trophy creation down into three things: an interesting shape, a supporting pedestal, and a nice surface finish.<\/p>\n

For the sake of simplicity, we\u2019ll create a trophy featuring the common cup. That said, the same steps are more-or-less applicable to a trophy of any type.<\/p>\n

Also for simplicity, we\u2019ll be using Tinkercad to demonstrate the modeling steps. If you\u2019re not familiar with the program, it\u2019s a free, easy-to-use CAD tool that executes via your internet browser.<\/p>\n

Here are the main steps we\u2019ll follow to create the trophy:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Modeling the body (including forming and hollowing the cup and base)<\/li>\n
  2. Adding decoration<\/li>\n
  3. Attaching the pedestal<\/li>\n
  4. Adding text<\/li>\n
  5. Printing<\/li>\n
  6. Post-processing (including sanding and painting)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Modeling: Body<\/h2>\n

    Cup<\/strong><\/h3>\n
    \"\"
    The non-hollow cup<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    First, form the cup portion of the body using an upside-down paraboloid. You\u2019ll find this under \u201cBasic Shapes\u201d.<\/p>\n

    Use the provided object operations to rotate and resize the trophy as desired. (Rotation can be restricted to 45-degree increments by holding Shift.)<\/p>\n

    Base<\/strong><\/h3>\n
    \"\"
    The base supports the cup<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    The base, in this case an upright paraboloid, is meant to give the cup more stability. In particular, it provides a larger surface area with which to attach to the pedestal.<\/p>\n

    Once you\u2019ve sized your base, join it to your cup like this:<\/p>\n

      \n
    1. Select both objects.<\/li>\n
    2. Press the \u201cAlign\u201d button.<\/li>\n
    3. Center the objects in the X and Y directions.<\/li>\n
    4. Press the \u201cGroup\u201d button.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      Hollowing<\/strong><\/h3>\n
      \"\"
      The solid and hole objects side by side<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

      A cup isn\u2019t really a cup unless it\u2019s hollow. Let\u2019s get to it.<\/p>\n

      More advanced programs can handle this step with an operation often referred to as \u201cshell\u201d. In that case, one must typically provide the wall thickness, and the software will work it out.<\/p>\n

      In Tinkercad, we\u2019ll have to do this \u201cmanually\u201d using the following steps:<\/p>\n

        \n
      1. Duplicate the cup-base object.<\/li>\n
      2. Set the duplicate to \u201cHole\u201d (instead of \u201cSolid\u201d).<\/li>\n
      3. Slightly reduce the length and width of the duplicate. (The subtracted value in each direction should be two times your desired wall thickness.)<\/li>\n
      4. Use the align operation to center the objects in both the X and Y directions.<\/li>\n
      5. Group the two objects together.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

        After completing these steps, the result will resemble a funny-looking funnel.<\/p>\n

        Modeling: Decoration<\/h2>\n
        \"\"
        Breaking the monotony<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

        Most trophies, even cup-based trophies, feature some kind of decoration. As a simple demonstration, we\u2019ll \u201ccarve\u201d a small star into the surface of our cup. Naturally, you\u2019re free to add whatever detail you like!<\/p>\n

        To create something like what\u2019s picture above, you\u2019ll need to do the following:<\/p>\n

          \n
        1. Create a 3D star (found in \u201cBasic Shapes\u201d), making sure to set your desired dimensions.<\/li>\n
        2. Set the star to \u201cHole\u201d.<\/li>\n
        3. Position your star so that it partially overlaps with the outer surface of the cup.<\/li>\n
        4. Group the two objects.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

          Note that this decoration was made in a recessed and sloped way so as not to require supports during printing.<\/p>\n

          Modeling: Pedestal<\/h2>\n
          \"\"
          A fundamental addition<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

          Most trophies will require a pedestal of support. Apart from providing stability, it can also be used to display text.<\/p>\n

          A simple rectangular prism will do the trick, but we choose to angle the top outward to make added text easier to read from the front. We also rotated it with respect to the body. In this way, the pedestal sits like a diamond instead of a square.<\/p>\n

          To add your pedestal to your body, center the two objects in the X and Y directions and group them together.<\/p>\n

          Modeling: Text<\/h2>\n

          \"\"<\/p>\n

          If you\u2019ve more-or-less followed the steps (and images) until now, your pedestal should have enough space to display many letters. If you have a specific event, winner, or year in mind, these would make prime candidates. In our case, we\u2019ll keep it generic with the words \u201cOutstanding Achievements\u201d.<\/p>\n

          Though it seems simple, this is one of the key advantages of 3D printing a trophy. With everything in one piece, your design will avoid the glued-on-plate look.<\/p>\n

          Tinkercad\u2019s text feature allows one to quickly and easily make 3D text. Just make sure that your text is high enough so that the letters will be clear even after post-processing.<\/p>\n

          If you were able to slope the top of your pedestal earlier, a nice trick is to set a new temporary \u201cWorkplane\u201d on the slope. This will allow you to better place your letters.<\/p>\n

          Otherwise, create your text, adjust the size, and group it along with the rest of your trophy.<\/p>\n

          3D Printing<\/h2>\n
          \"\"
          Don’t worry \u2013 it’ll be pretty soon enough<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

          Assuming your model is similar in structure and appearance to what we\u2019ve presented here, printing your design should be fairly straightforward, requiring no supports or special settings.<\/p>\n

          To obtain your 3D printed trophy, do the following:<\/p>\n

            \n
          1. Export your Tinkercad model as an STL file<\/a>.<\/li>\n
          2. Load the STL into your favorite slicer, and prepare it for printing using the best settings for your material of choice<\/a>.<\/li>\n
          3. Slice the model and transfer the G-code file to your printer.<\/li>\n
          4. Start printing!<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

            The above image shows our trophy in all its raw, unprocessed glory. (We used PLA with standard settings.)<\/p>\n

            Post-Processing<\/h2>\n
            \"\"
            The same model after sanding<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

            Sanding<\/strong><\/h3>\n

            Even with the finest settings (which aren\u2019t necessary), an FDM print will look 3D printed. And that\u2019s not something you want to see on the surface of a trophy.<\/p>\n

            For most prints, the first step is sanding. In general, sanding should be performed uniformly across a service in multiple stages. Earlier stages should use a coarser grit (e.g. 200) while later stages, a finer grit (e.g. 4000).<\/p>\n

            That said, it\u2019s up to you to decide how obsessive to get with this step. And remember that microscopic edges and flaws will be covered up by the paint.<\/p>\n

            If you look closely at the above image, you\u2019ll notice how the surface is much smoother after some heavy sanding. (It was sanded progressively, and the last grit used was 600.) The letters were left untouched so as to not wear them down.<\/p>\n

            Painting<\/strong><\/h3>\n
            \"\"
            The right paint makes a big difference<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

            Since it should be pleasing to the eye, the painting process is of fundamental importance.<\/p>\n

            It is recommended to do this little by little, adding one light coat of paint at a time. If too much paint is applied in a single coat, you run the risk of visible drops. Also, make sure to allow ample time to dry between coats.<\/p>\n

            As a model like this is bound to have many nooks and crannies, apply paint from several directions. It\u2019s quite easy to overlook the little corners around the letters. When painting, always follow all safety recommendations, including setting up proper ventilation.<\/p>\n

            To achieve the result in the photo, a standard, off-the-shelf gold spray paint was used. Even with several coats, little of it was needed. For simplicity, we painted the entire model in a single color, but don\u2019t be afraid to get creative with multiple colors!<\/p>\n

            And there you have it! A beautiful, custom-made, 3D printed trophy!<\/p>\n

            Other Post-Processing Methods<\/h2>\n
            \"\"
            Putty application on a model airplane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

            Though not relevant for our tutorial, there are a few other post-processing methods you may be interested in.<\/p>\n

            Modeling Putty<\/strong><\/h3>\n

            A smooth surface and well-aligned components are essential for overall aesthetic quality.<\/p>\n

            In cases where sanding isn\u2019t enough, it might be worthwhile to use some modeling putty. To achieve that non-3D printed look, fill in those rogue nooks, let it dry, and sand down anything that bulges.<\/p>\n

            Vapor Smoothing<\/strong><\/h3>\n
            \"\"
            An acetone-smoothed ABS print<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

            If you\u2019re using ABS, you might want to consider vapor smoothing. Of the most common 3D printing materials, ABS is the only one that will work with this technique, as it dissolves in acetone.<\/p>\n

            Essentially, vapor smoothing lightly exposes the surfaces of a print to acetone vapor. In this way, small details \u2013 like layer lines \u2013 are \u201cmelted\u201d away, leaving behind a smooth and shiny surface. In some cases, you may not even need to apply any paint.<\/p>\n

            Compared to sanding, this technique requires less work to produce a nicer finish. That said, it does require one to take proper safety precautions. Acetone is both flammable and toxic to humans, so it must be handled with care.<\/p>\n

            Also, think about whether or not it makes sense to use vapor smoothing for your model. Generally speaking, the technique is applied to an entire print, and that may not be practical if you have fine-detail letters.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

            If you have an award to give, nothing will look better than having a custom-made trophy with names printed in place. Not only will it be one of a kind, and therefore special, it\u2019ll also be purpose-fit to the occasion! In this article, we\u2019ll go over how to make a 3D printable trophy, from modeling […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":184053,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"fifu_image_url":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/11\/some-sweet-sweet-trophies-thatsi.jpg","fifu_image_alt":"How to Model & 3D Print A Trophy","footnotes":""},"categories":[94],"tags":[201,24,432,545],"class_list":["post-166090","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-applications","tag-3d-modeling","tag-3d-printing","tag-post-processing","tag-trophy"],"yoast_head":"\nHow to Model & 3D Print A Trophy - FacFox News<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"If you have an award to give, nothing will look better than having a custom-made trophy with names printed in place. 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