{"id":165883,"date":"2022-10-22T16:22:44","date_gmt":"2022-10-22T08:22:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/?post_type=kb&p=165883"},"modified":"2022-11-22T16:30:20","modified_gmt":"2022-11-22T08:30:20","slug":"3d-printing-brim-when-should-you-use-it","status":"publish","type":"kb","link":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/kb\/3d-printing-brim-when-should-you-use-it","title":{"rendered":"3D Printing Brim: When Should You Use It"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Prevent warping, help with adhesion, and reduce waste \u2013 what’s not to love about a 3D printing brim? Read on to learn more!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Bad\u00a0first-layer adhesion<\/a> can make 3D printing straight-up impossible. Models with complicated geometry can detach from the bed as the print advances, and warping \u2013 which becomes a problem throughout the printing process and isn\u2019t apparent from the start \u2013 can ruin prints and waste time. All these issues can be solved partially or completely by using a brim.<\/p>\n

A brim is an optional addition to your print and can be activated in your\u00a0slicer software<\/a>. It\u2019s not a part of your model but rather a slicer setting to aid with the print quality of your print\u2019s first layer. Whether you need one depends on the nature of the part to be printed and the quality of your printer.<\/p>\n

There are three different options for additions: skirt, raft, and brim. In this article, we\u2019ll focus on brims, discussing when you should use them, when you should avoid them, and how to use a brim properly to get to most out of it.<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s dive in!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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When to Use a Brim<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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A brim is basically like a\u00a0skirt<\/a>\u00a0with a 0-mm separation from the model. You could also say that it\u2019s like a\u00a0raft<\/a>\u00a0that\u2019s only one layer on the outskirts of the model, but one that uses less material, takes up less time to print, and is easier to remove.<\/p>\n

A brim may not be necessary for every model you print. The key is knowing when to use it and when you can do without it. Even in cases when you use a brim, the settings of the brim are important to consider and may affect the overall outcome of the print. There isn\u2019t a cure-all when it comes to brims, and you have to consider every individual situation.<\/p>\n

So, let\u2019s check out some situations when a brim is a good solution.<\/p>\n

Warping<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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You can see the brim pulling at the borders (Source: Jeofo via Reddit)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Warping<\/a>\u00a0is a 3D printing issue that causes the first layers of the print to shrink due to the pull of layers further up. This is something that happens as the print advances. When warping becomes apparent, you may have already invested a lot of time and material on the print.<\/p>\n

Warping can happen with many filament materials, although some are more prone to warping than others.\u00a0ABS<\/a>, for example, is notorious. Low-quality filaments are also more likely to warp. In addition to materials, the actual design of the model can lead to this issue. Large flat-bottomed models, for instance, might warp during printing.<\/p>\n

Using a brim helps with warping because it acts like a net that forces the bottom of the print to stay attached to the bed. Similar to the way the upper parts of the print may try to pull the base up, the brim will pull it down, keeping it in place.<\/p>\n

When you want to use a brim to prevent warping, the line count defining the brim\u2019s width will depend on the surface area of your base layer. The bigger it is, the more lines the brim should have so it has enough strength to pull on the part.<\/p>\n

Risky Geometries<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/div>\n
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Keep that horse in place (Source: cheezedawg via Thingiverse)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Imagine printing a standing horse. Each hoof and leg prints separately, then attaches to the body as the print progresses. These small individual parts can come loose due to the slight pull of the filament with each layer added. It\u2019s not uncommon for the print to start without problem, and a few layers up, one of the hooves detaches from the bed. The print is then ruined.<\/p>\n

Similarly, parts with prominent curves in the first layer or even sharp corners can have trouble adhering to the table. This can be solved with brims, which help contain the geometry in place. If you\u2019re going to print a sphere or similar geometries where there\u2019s a very small surface touching the build plate, a brim can prevent detaching from the build plate.<\/p>\n

Small Support Structures<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/div>\n
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It’s a common SLA practice that should carry over to FDM (Source: Formlabs)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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If a print needs\u00a0supports<\/a>\u00a0but doesn\u2019t have enough space to place them because, for example, the detail they\u2019re supporting is too small, the printer can have trouble placing such a small geometry, and the supports may not adhere correctly. Therefore, brims can help contain the geometry of the support the same way as they would with the main print. This is because plastic attaches better to itself than to any other materials, which is the reason why everything usually goes smoothly after the first layer.<\/p>\n

A brim basically takes the brunt of the first layer adhesion effort. That way, the actual part to be printed can simply attach to the brim itself.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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When Not to Use a Brim<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n
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The residual product may ruin the dimensional accuracy (Source: ST Steven via YouTube)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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If you\u2019re considering a brim to check that the print bed is correctly leveled, that the filament is being extruded, or other print settings but don\u2019t need actual first-layer adhesion aid, you\u2019d be better off using a skirt. It uses less material and doesn\u2019t touch the model.<\/p>\n

Using brims is a good way to check the calibration and first-layer adhesion before starting the actual print. However, a brim can mess with the dimensional accuracy of parts, as it may be attached too firmly, requiring cutting and possibly\u00a0sanding<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Brims can negatively affect parts that have a snap-fit functionality or those that need to be assembled into other parts. Such parts require high dimensional accuracy, but brims can actually change the final geometry of your model. You may not need to avoid it completely, but it\u2019s important to consider the optimal bed orientation to preserve the print\u2019s functionality.<\/p>\n

In contrast, if you\u2019re going to print a figurine, where dimensional accuracy isn\u2019t as important, you can use a brim to help the first layer without it affecting the final result at all.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Pros & Cons<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n
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If a piece is snap-fit, it may need post-processing (Source: Proto3000 via YouTube)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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All of the above said, let\u2019s take a look at the pros and cons.<\/p>\n

Pros<\/strong><\/h3>\n