![\"\"](\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/11\/08\/4cc78b8f61a34b55.png\")
Bridging in 3D printing is an extrusion of material that horizontally links two raised points. However, if you\u2019re reading this article, the bridges in your prints are probably not too horizontal. Don\u2019t beat yourself up. Bridging problems are extremely common, and thankfully, they\u2019re relatively easy to eliminate.<\/p>\n
So, let\u2019s dive into some quick tips and tricks to bring the best bridging 3D printing results!<\/p>\n
Test Your Printer<\/h3>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/11\/08\/26036514e0d43e6a.png\")
A tricky bridging test successfully 3D printed (Source: walter via Thingiverse)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nBefore you begin tweaking settings, it\u2019s important to see how well your printer can (or can\u2019t) bridge. Try printing this\u00a0bridging test<\/a>. In one print, you\u2019ll be able to see what bridge lengths are hard for your printer. 50- to 100-mm bridges are good, while bridges spanning 150+ mm are excellent. If this test doesn\u2019t turn out well, don\u2019t worry; this is just to figure out the extent of the problem.<\/p>\nIncrease Cooling<\/h3>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/11\/08\/b9d3deee2e5d1eec.png\")
Your printer’s fans can be adjusted for cooling extruded material (Source: Elon Technology Blog)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWhen trying to optimize your printer\u2019s bridging capabilities, first increase your print cooling (print\u00a0fan<\/a>\u00a0speed). If you\u2019re printing bridges with a low print cooling setting, the filament will just sink into a big mess of molten plastic. So, start at 100% fan speed, and keep an eye out for bridging improvements.<\/p>\nHowever, if you\u2019re noticing clogging or poor\u00a0layer adhesion<\/a>, your fan setting is too high! Bring it back down in 5% increments, and move on to the next easy fix.<\/p>\nDecrease Flow Rate<\/h3>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/11\/08\/f936a3ddea03eda9.png\")
An extreme case of over-extrusion (Source: donnysaysvacuum via Reddit)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFor material to cleanly bridge a gap, it must set quickly. So, if too much-molten filament is flowing from the nozzle, it\u2019ll have no time to set. This will most likely make your print look like London Bridge falling down.<\/p>\n
By decreasing the Flow Rate (or Extrusion Multiplier) in your\u00a0slicer<\/a>, your printer will be able to extrude a steady flow of filament that can cool into a beautiful bridge.<\/p>\nDecrease Temperature<\/h3>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/11\/08\/9a3bab0e8856bba4.png\")
Temperature towers show the printer’s capabilities at different temperatures (Source: brunofporto via Thingiverse)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThis next tip is very similar to the previous one. If your nozzle temperature is too high and too much filament is allowed to flow from it, the printing material will not have enough time to cool and set. This will probably result in filament sticking to your nozzle or forming a very messy bridge.<\/p>\n
A\u00a0temperature tower<\/a>\u00a0is a great way to test how your printer handles different temperatures. In order to print one, you\u2019ll need to manipulate the\u00a0G-code<\/a>\u00a0so the temperature changes with each level. To get to this option in\u00a0Cura<\/a>, Select Extensions > Post-processing > Modify G-code, and add the \u201cVary Temp With Height\u201d plug-in.<\/p>\nFrom here, you can input the height increment (for how often you want to change temperature) and temperature increment (for how much you want to change it). The designer of the temperature tower model offers the necessary code for\u00a0Slic3r<\/a>\u00a0and Cura in the Thing details.<\/p>\nDecrease Print Speed<\/h3>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/11\/08\/bf69099439fde961.png\")
A clean, successful bridging test (Source: Adam Adikimenakis via YouTube)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nHigh print speed can also affect bridge quality. If your nozzle is moving too fast, the filament will not have time to adhere to the previous layer or set in time to bridge a gap. In other words, high print speeds can result in huge messes.<\/p>\n
Try decreasing your print speed in 10-mm\/s increments until you see some improvement. Don\u2019t go too slow, though. If your nozzle is moving too slow, the filament will be suspended in the air for too long and will eventually droop. So, play around with some speeds, and you\u2019re bound to find the perfect one.<\/p>\n
Adjust Model Orientation<\/h3>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/11\/08\/a10abb121357f31c.png\")
Depending on the orienation of your parts, you might or might not need supports (Source: Hubs)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nIf you\u2019re completely tired of tweaking settings to get longer bridges or you don\u2019t have the time to start, try\u00a0orienting<\/a>\u00a0your model to totally (or mostly) eliminate bridges in the model. Just remember the 45\u00b0 rule: If an overhang is greater than 45\u00b0, you\u2019ll have to consider\u00a0supports<\/a>.<\/p>\nIf you\u2019re especially brave, check out our article on\u00a0how to master printing overhangs exceeding 45\u00b0<\/a>.<\/p>\nAdd Supports<\/h3>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/11\/08\/b80692c39b6a24b3.png\")
Bridge successfully printed with supports (Source: MatterHackers)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpeaking of supports, why not use them? Supports will eliminate your worries about messy bridges. They may be a pain to remove, but check out our article on\u00a0easy steps for success with supports<\/a>.<\/p>\nDon\u2019t forget that you\u2019ll have to remove supports after printing! Some models make this removal process nearly impossible, or it\u2019s tricky to do so without damaging the surface of your print.\u00a0Sanding and other post-processing methods<\/a>\u00a0are your friends!<\/p>\n <\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Before you begin tweaking settings, it\u2019s important to see how well your printer can (or can\u2019t) bridge. Try printing this\u00a0bridging test<\/a>. In one print, you\u2019ll be able to see what bridge lengths are hard for your printer. 50- to 100-mm bridges are good, while bridges spanning 150+ mm are excellent. If this test doesn\u2019t turn out well, don\u2019t worry; this is just to figure out the extent of the problem.<\/p>\n When trying to optimize your printer\u2019s bridging capabilities, first increase your print cooling (print\u00a0fan<\/a>\u00a0speed). If you\u2019re printing bridges with a low print cooling setting, the filament will just sink into a big mess of molten plastic. So, start at 100% fan speed, and keep an eye out for bridging improvements.<\/p>\n However, if you\u2019re noticing clogging or poor\u00a0layer adhesion<\/a>, your fan setting is too high! Bring it back down in 5% increments, and move on to the next easy fix.<\/p>\n For material to cleanly bridge a gap, it must set quickly. So, if too much-molten filament is flowing from the nozzle, it\u2019ll have no time to set. This will most likely make your print look like London Bridge falling down.<\/p>\n By decreasing the Flow Rate (or Extrusion Multiplier) in your\u00a0slicer<\/a>, your printer will be able to extrude a steady flow of filament that can cool into a beautiful bridge.<\/p>\n This next tip is very similar to the previous one. If your nozzle temperature is too high and too much filament is allowed to flow from it, the printing material will not have enough time to cool and set. This will probably result in filament sticking to your nozzle or forming a very messy bridge.<\/p>\n A\u00a0temperature tower<\/a>\u00a0is a great way to test how your printer handles different temperatures. In order to print one, you\u2019ll need to manipulate the\u00a0G-code<\/a>\u00a0so the temperature changes with each level. To get to this option in\u00a0Cura<\/a>, Select Extensions > Post-processing > Modify G-code, and add the \u201cVary Temp With Height\u201d plug-in.<\/p>\n From here, you can input the height increment (for how often you want to change temperature) and temperature increment (for how much you want to change it). The designer of the temperature tower model offers the necessary code for\u00a0Slic3r<\/a>\u00a0and Cura in the Thing details.<\/p>\n High print speed can also affect bridge quality. If your nozzle is moving too fast, the filament will not have time to adhere to the previous layer or set in time to bridge a gap. In other words, high print speeds can result in huge messes.<\/p>\n Try decreasing your print speed in 10-mm\/s increments until you see some improvement. Don\u2019t go too slow, though. If your nozzle is moving too slow, the filament will be suspended in the air for too long and will eventually droop. So, play around with some speeds, and you\u2019re bound to find the perfect one.<\/p>\n If you\u2019re completely tired of tweaking settings to get longer bridges or you don\u2019t have the time to start, try\u00a0orienting<\/a>\u00a0your model to totally (or mostly) eliminate bridges in the model. Just remember the 45\u00b0 rule: If an overhang is greater than 45\u00b0, you\u2019ll have to consider\u00a0supports<\/a>.<\/p>\n If you\u2019re especially brave, check out our article on\u00a0how to master printing overhangs exceeding 45\u00b0<\/a>.<\/p>\n Speaking of supports, why not use them? Supports will eliminate your worries about messy bridges. They may be a pain to remove, but check out our article on\u00a0easy steps for success with supports<\/a>.<\/p>\n Don\u2019t forget that you\u2019ll have to remove supports after printing! Some models make this removal process nearly impossible, or it\u2019s tricky to do so without damaging the surface of your print.\u00a0Sanding and other post-processing methods<\/a>\u00a0are your friends!<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\nIncrease Cooling<\/h3>\n
Decrease Flow Rate<\/h3>\n
Decrease Temperature<\/h3>\n
Decrease Print Speed<\/h3>\n
Adjust Model Orientation<\/h3>\n
Add Supports<\/h3>\n