{"id":164950,"date":"2022-06-26T14:52:01","date_gmt":"2022-06-26T06:52:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/?post_type=kb&#038;p=164950"},"modified":"2022-08-11T14:56:27","modified_gmt":"2022-08-11T06:56:27","slug":"10-methods-for-3d-printing-post-processing-pla-more","status":"publish","type":"kb","link":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/kb\/10-methods-for-3d-printing-post-processing-pla-more","title":{"rendered":"10 Methods for 3D Printing Post-Processing (PLA &#038; More)"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"container container--l container--space\">\n<div class=\"section\">\n<p class=\"paragraph paragraph--emphasized\">3D printing post-processing can make your work look better and improve strength. Learn 10 methods of post-processing PLA, PETG, and more!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"toc-layout__toc\">\n<p>Almost every 3D print requires some sort of post-processing after it\u2019s printed. There\u2019s a lot of information and advice about post-processing 3D prints out there, but here we\u2019ve gathered the most important techniques in one place. For each tip, we\u2019ll clearly explain what to do and provide some tips on how to get perfect results every time.<\/p>\n<p>Post-processing can improve a printed part\u2019s aesthetics, but it can also improve the strength and other properties. Once you discover the beauty of post-processing, you\u2019ll never want to leave your 3D prints untouched again. There are many techniques to choose from, and we\u2019ve divided our choices into two categories: \u201ccleaning and prepping\u201d and \u201cfinishing\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Without further ado, let\u2019s dive deeper into post-processing and how to perfect your FDM prints!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div><a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/sla-post-processing-best-ways-to-clean-your-resin-3d-prints\/\">How to Clean Resin Prints \u2013 3 Simple Steps<\/a><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"section\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--listicle-section u-text-center\">CLEANING &amp; PREPPING<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"rich-text rich-text--full\">\n<p>We\u2019ll start our journey into post-processing by discovering cleaning and prepping techniques, including basics such as support removal and sanding. Depending on the application of the item, these techniques are usually the first steps in post-processing, but can also be all you do, depending on how far you want or need to go.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Support Removal<\/h3>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/cd9707bf4968eaf9.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Removing these supports cleanly will be a challenge (Source: Slic3r Manual)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Support removal is the most basic form of post-processing. Usually, support removal doesn\u2019t require much effort, unless there are supports in tight corners or other hard-to-reach places. Depending on what they\u2019re made of, supports can be insoluble or soluble (able to be dissolved in water or another liquid).<\/p>\n<p>Insoluble supports are made from the same material as the main part. FDM 3D printers with a single extruder can only use this type of support, as the part and its supports will be printed from the same spool of filament. Removing insoluble supports is usually done by snapping them with your fingers or cutting them with a pair of pliers.<\/p>\n<p>If you\u2019re lucky enough to have access to a\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/1\/best-dual-extruder-3d-printer\/\">dual-extruder 3D printer<\/a>, you\u2019ll be able to use soluble supports. Whereas insoluble supports can be very tricky to remove in places that are hard to reach, soluble supports can simply be dissolved by soaking the part in either water or another liquid, leaving little to no marking or residue.<\/p>\n<p>Two of the most common materials for soluble supports are\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/hips-filament-the-basics-best-brands\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">HIPS<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/pva-filament-explained-and-compared\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">PVA<\/a>. HIPS is used with\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/abs-3d-printer-filament-explained\/\">ABS<\/a>\u00a0and dissolves in D-limonene, while PVA\u00a0is a great fit for\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/1\/pla-filament-3d-printing\/\">PLA<\/a>\u00a0and dissolves in water.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Relatively easy to do<\/li>\n<li>Doesn\u2019t require much equipment<\/li>\n<li>Soluble supports provide more design flexibility<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Even when removed carefully, supports can leave marks<\/li>\n<li>While sometimes structurally necessary, supports don\u2019t improve the appearance or properties of a part<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/kb\/3d-printing-supports-the-ultimate-guide\">3D Printing Supports \u2013 The Ultimate Guide<\/a><\/p>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Sanding<\/h3>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/34cd4f9f1291b8f6.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Always start sanding with low-grit sandpaper (Source: MakerBot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Apart from support removal, sanding is the most common form of post-processing. Generally, FDM 3D prints can have a slightly rough surface, and sanding is the easiest way to smooth it.<\/p>\n<p>After printing, a part might have a few\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-print-zits-tips-tricks-to-avoid-blobs\/\">blobs<\/a>\u00a0left on its surface, or there might be some nasty marks remaining after you\u2019ve removed supports. The ideal way to remove such blemishes is by using sandpaper. It\u2019s always best to start with low-grit sandpaper (150-400) and move towards higher grit sandpaper (up to 2,000) in a few stages of sanding.<\/p>\n<p>A couple of key tricks to sanding are wet sanding and circular movement. As you\u2019re sanding the part, friction between the sandpaper and the surface generates heat, which could have a negative effect on the fine features of the print, especially with heat-sensitive filaments. To avoid this, simply wet your part before sanding to absorb any excess heat.<\/p>\n<p>Especially with FDM parts, where layers are easily visible, it\u2019s important to sand the parts in a circular motion. If you sand the parts parallel or perpendicular to the layers, you could ruin the visual appearance of the parts.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Great prepping technique before polishing or painting<\/li>\n<li>Nicely smooths the surface<\/li>\n<li>All FDM materials can be sanded<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Can be time-consuming<\/li>\n<li>Tough to perform on small features and details<\/li>\n<li>Can affect dimensional accuracy<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Welding<\/h3>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/01b0db8b73c2ef3f.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Be careful, don&#8217;t apply too much acetone! (Source: The Lucky Needle via YouTube)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>If you\u2019d like to 3D print a large object using ABS, but the build volume of your 3D printer is too small, welding is the perfect solution for you.<\/p>\n<p>Welding, in this case, doesn\u2019t have anything to do with metals. In FDM 3D printing, welding refers to connecting ABS parts using acetone. Acetone has the ability to melt ABS, so this means that ABS parts can be joined using acetone welding.<\/p>\n<p>The process is fairly simple but requires a calm hand. Apply a little bit of acetone onto the part you\u2019d like to \u201cglue\u201d. This will slightly melt the plastic, and at that moment, attach the other part to the melted edge to weld them together.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Stronger than other joining methods<\/li>\n<li>Inexpensive<\/li>\n<li>Low skill-level required<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>If too much acetone is applied, the entire part can be ruined<\/li>\n<li>The weld is not as strong as the rest of the part<\/li>\n<li>Only ABS can be welded with acetone<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Gluing<\/h3>\n<div>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/6cc31906afe1d374.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Once applied, Super Glue holds tight (Source: Geeetech)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<p>While welding is a great method of merging multiple 3D printed parts, it\u2019s only possible with parts printed in ABS. Luckily, 3D prints made with other materials can still be joined by gluing.\u00a0Similar to welding, this is generally used when something can\u2019t be printed in a single piece due to the dimensional constraints of the printer.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/petg-vs-pla-3d-printing-filaments-compared\/\">PLA and PETG<\/a>\u00a0are examples of materials that can easily be glued together using bonding agents like\u00a0<span class=\"link\" data-action=\"modal-open\" data-modal-ajax=\"\/en\/product-overlay\/214580\/limit\/0\/\">super glue<\/span>, or custom products like\u00a0<span class=\"link\" data-action=\"modal-open\" data-modal-ajax=\"\/en\/product-overlay\/209631\/limit\/0\/\">3D Gloop!<\/span>, for example.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Works with common filaments (PLA, PETG)<\/li>\n<li>Inexpensive<\/li>\n<li>Not time-consuming<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Not as strong as welding; parts are weak at the gluing point<\/li>\n<li>Can be messy<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<div><a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/best-petg-glue\/\">The Best Glue for PETG 3D Prints in 2022<\/a><\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"section\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--listicle-section u-text-center\">FINISHING<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"rich-text rich-text--full\">\n<p>Finishing techniques are the final step in 3D printing post-processing. We\u2019ll explain how techniques such as painting, smoothing, polishing, and dipping are performed on FDM 3D prints.<\/p>\n<p>The extra effort that goes into performing finishing techniques certainly pays off in the end. By applying these techniques, you\u2019ll be able to get rid of visible layers and create the smoothest possible surface. No one will ever suspect your parts came off a 3D printer!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Priming &amp; Painting<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/4a6b776df5811a75.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spray painting 3D models is a messy business (Source: Fabbaloo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<p>Priming is a post-processing technique that\u2019s used for preparing a surface for painting. It simply means coating the part with either primer paint or primer spray, which acts as a base layer for the paint that will be applied later.<\/p>\n<p>Before you apply the primer, it\u2019s best to first sand your part with low- and then medium-grit sandpaper. This removes layer lines and smooths the surface. After sanding the part, apply two coats of primer, allowing it to try in between.<\/p>\n<p>Once everything is dry, you can start\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/beginner-s-guide-to-painting-3d-prints-pla-abs\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">painting your 3D print<\/a>\u00a0using a brush or spray. If you want to achieve sharp color intersections, using masking tape is a perfect solution.<\/p>\n<p>Priming and painting are best done in a well-ventilated area or outdoors and while wearing a mask to avoid breathing in unwanted fumes.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Enhances the look and feel of a part<\/li>\n<li>Provides a smooth surface finish<\/li>\n<li>Works on all FDM materials<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Relatively time-consuming<\/li>\n<li>Can be costly due to the equipment needed (paints, sprays, sandpaper, masks, and brushes)<\/li>\n<li>Some skill is required to achieve great results<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<div><a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/best-paint-for-plastic-pla-abs-petg-nylon\/\">The Best Paint for PLA, PETG, ABS, &amp; Nylon<\/a><\/div>\n<div>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Smoothing<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/4dc345ae6a9ceeef.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Acetone makes layer lines disappear on certain filaments (Source: Sink Hacks)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<div><\/div>\n<div>\n<p>Smoothing is a popular post-processing technique, especially for ABS prints. Acetone has the ability to melt ABS and therefore smooth away the layer lines visible on a part\u2019s surface.<\/p>\n<p>The simplest method is to pour acetone into a large container (which can be plastic, but glass is recommended) then place your prints on a platform above the acetone. Close the container lid for 10-20 minutes so that the vapor can melt the outer layer of the parts. You want the vapor to still be able to escape the container rather than building up, so if the lid is one that seals tightly, consider drilling a few holes beforehand.<\/p>\n<p>If you don\u2019t have an appropriate container, you can apply small amounts of acetone with a brush onto the surface of your 3D prints. But a warning: Acetone is highly flammable and can explode. Therefore, proper precautions should be followed while carrying out either of these processes. Even just the fumes can be harmful if inhaled, causing irritation and other negative effects. Always work in a well-ventilated area and make sure to wear gloves and a mask.<\/p>\n<p>As for PLA, smoothing can\u2019t be done with acetone as it doesn\u2019t melt it, and it could even destroy the entire print by making it \u201cgummy\u201d.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/pla-smoothing-a-beginner-s-guide\/\">PLA can be smoothed<\/a>\u00a0with chemicals like THF or MEK, but the results won\u2019t be nice as acetone-smoothed ABS.<\/p>\n<p>In case you have some 3D prints made from PVB filament, you can use isopropyl alcohol to perform the smoothing.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Smooth and shiny surface<\/li>\n<li>Acetone is relatively cheap<\/li>\n<li>Quick to achieve<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Acetone smoothing is only possible for ABS prints<\/li>\n<li>Dimensional accuracy can be compromised<\/li>\n<li>Risk of warping for larger prints<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/kb\/acetone-3d-print-smoothing-6-easy-steps\">Acetone 3D Print Smoothing: 6 Easy Steps<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Polishing<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/f923e3335b5805fe.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"590\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A beautifully-polished 3D printed camera casing (Source: juresnip via YouTube)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"ad-layout__content\">\n<div class=\"container\">\n<div class=\"rich-text rich-text--full \">\n<p>This 3D printing post-processing technique is used to achieve the smoothest possible surface. Polishing 3D prints can be done with plastic polishers and tools available at almost every hardware store. A microfiber cloth and a plastic polisher are all you need, but if you\u2019ve got the enthusiasm and a few more dollars, using a\u00a0<a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/s?k=dremel+polishing+kit&amp;tag=all3dp0c-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" data-action=\"modal-open\" data-modal-template=\"#modal-template-shoplink\">Dremel tool<\/a>\u00a0will make this process even easier.<\/p>\n<p>Before a part can be polished, it needs to be sanded properly, finishing with the finest sandpaper. After sanding, rinse your parts and make sure there are no particles left. If you\u2019re using a cloth, apply the polisher to the sanded part and move the cloth in a circular motion until you\u2019re satisfied with the result. A\u00a0<a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/dp\/B015PK3DKI?tag=all3dp0c-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" data-action=\"modal-open\" data-modal-template=\"#modal-template-shoplink\" data-orig-url=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/dp\/B015PK3DKI?tag=all3dp0c-20\" data-ml-id=\"0\" data-ml=\"true\" data-xid=\"fr1655361648532gdc\">Dremel buffer<\/a>\u00a0will do much of the work for you, but make sure it\u2019s moving evenly along the surface.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Produces smooth and mirror-like surface<\/li>\n<li>Inexpensive, unless you invest in a Dremel<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Dimensional accuracy can be compromised<\/li>\n<li>Moderate skill-level required<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"ad-layout__ad\">\n<div class=\"ad-layout__ad-item\">\n<div class=\"ad-layout__ad-wrapper\">\n<div class=\"ad-container ad-container--sticky ad-container--loaded\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Hydro Dipping<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/1c62532b60ae4cb2.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Make your 3D prints stand out with cool graphics applied with hydro dipping (Source: Adafruit)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Though typically used on a large scale for industrial products, small-scale\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/1\/hydro-dipping-hydrographics-3d-printing\/\">hydro dipping<\/a>\u00a0can easily be applied to 3D printed parts for a great look. Also known as water transfer printing or water transfer imaging, hydro dipping is a process of applying printed graphic designs to solid objects using\u00a0<a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/s?k=Hydrographic+film&amp;tag=all3dp0c-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" data-action=\"modal-open\" data-modal-template=\"#modal-template-shoplink\">special water transfer paper<\/a>. This paper has one side made from PVA, onto which graphics are printed with an inkjet printer.<\/p>\n<p>Once that\u2019s done, find a container big enough to accommodate your part and fill it with hot water. Remove the back of the paper so that you\u2019re left with only the clear PVA with a printed graphic. Carefully lay it down into the water and wait for the PVA to dissolve so that your graphic is floating on its own.<\/p>\n<p>Then, slowly submerge the part into the graphic at a 45-degree angle. You can either hold it with one hand or attach a stick to be able to work from a distance. Once the part is fully submerged, shake it a few times and you\u2019re all set to pull the finished part out of the container.<\/p>\n<p>Hydro dipping is only used for enhancing the aesthetics of the object and does not change the feel or any dimensional properties. However, the possibilities are infinite with the graphics you can add to a part, so this is one of the best ways of making your 3D prints eye-catching.<\/p>\n<p>If you need some more support, this\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instructables.com\/Custom-hydrographic-design-for-3D-printing\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Instructable<\/a>\u00a0is very helpful.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Dimensional accuracy is maintained<\/li>\n<li>Complete design freedom<\/li>\n<li>Works on all materials<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Paper transfers can be expensive<\/li>\n<li>A few attempts are needed to get the feel for performing this technique<\/li>\n<li>Not resistant to scratches or other surface damage<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Epoxy Coating<\/h3>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/f16ca450a5f4efee.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Although the surface is smooth and shiny, layer lines can still be seen (Source: MatterHackers)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div>\n<p>Epoxy coating your 3D prints improves strength, but it can also seal porous parts of the print and act as a great protective layer overall. The epoxy coat consists of two different chemicals: the epoxy resin itself and a hardener.<\/p>\n<p>When you buy chemicals for epoxy coating applications, the brand you choose will provide mixing instructions. The ratio of hardener and resin must be correct to achieve good results, or you could end up with a coating that never dries! Once you\u2019ve got the mixture ready, it\u2019s time to apply it to a 3D printed part.<\/p>\n<p>We suggest using a foam applicator or sponge to apply the coating. When you\u2019ve done the first coat, leave the part to dry, and then sand it with either 1,000- or 2,000-grit sandpaper. With that done, you\u2019re ready to apply the second and final coat of epoxy.<\/p>\n<p>If you\u2019d like to give epoxy coating a try, there are 3D-printing-specific epoxy-coating products, such as\u00a0<a class=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/dp\/B00PFXK4JY?tag=all3dp0c-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" data-action=\"modal-open\" data-modal-template=\"#modal-template-shoplink\" data-orig-url=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/dp\/B00PFXK4JY?tag=all3dp0c-20\" data-ml-id=\"1\" data-ml=\"true\" data-xid=\"fr1655361648532hef\">XTC-3D<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Improves the strength of the part<\/li>\n<li>Adds a durable protective layer<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Layer lines won\u2019t be gone entirely<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Electroplating<\/h3>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/16\/78dda774dcc0293a.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"561\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Electroplating is a great technique for parts that need to be strong or conductive (Source: Hubs)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Electroplating is a process that adds a metal coating to other metals or parts with a conductive surface. It\u2019s a great post-processing technique that can significantly improve both strength and visual appearance.\u00a0The process itself can seem complicated at first, but it\u2019s not as technical as it seems.<\/p>\n<p>Electroplating is basically transferring a metal coating from one metal to another (or a part with a conductive surface). Electroplating is possible thanks to a chemical process called electrolysis. Two main tools for electrolysis are a power source (battery or rectifier) and an electrolyte.<\/p>\n<p>The electrolyte is a mixture of a metal salt (of the metal that you want to coat your part with), an acid, and water. An electric current is needed to initiate the reaction between the cathode (connected to the power source\u2019s negative pole) and the anode (positive pole).<\/p>\n<p>The anode is made from the metal you want to use as coating, and the part to be plated acts as the cathode. Both the anode and the cathode are then dipped into the electrolyte.<\/p>\n<p>The salt in the electrolyte contains cations and anions (positively- and negatively-charged ions), which need to move to the cathode and anode to enable the metal transfer. Turning on the power source adds electric current into the electrolyte, causing the anions to move to the anode and the cations to move to the cathode.<\/p>\n<p>Let\u2019s say you\u2019d like to coat your 3D printed part with copper, so the electrolyte you\u2019ll be using is copper sulfate (CuSO<sub>4<\/sub>). Once the electric current starts, the Cu<sup>2<\/sup><sup>+\u00a0<\/sup>cations move to the cathode and coat your part.<\/p>\n<p>The most common metals used in this process are copper and nickel, but it can also be done with materials such as brass, gold, silver, chrome, and others.<\/p>\n<p>Because 3D printed parts are plastic and non-conductive, You\u2019ll need to properly sand them and apply conductive paint before attempting electroplating.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>PROS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>Parts become stronger and are conductive<\/li>\n<li>If done properly, dimensional accuracy won\u2019t be compromised<\/li>\n<li>Visual appearance is improved<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>CONS<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>High skill-level required<\/li>\n<li>Can be dangerous if you\u2019re not wearing safety equipment (gloves and glasses)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div>Source: <a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/fdm-3d-printing-post-processing-an-overview-for-beginners\/\">https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/fdm-3d-printing-post-processing-an-overview-for-beginners\/<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>3D printing post-processing can make your work look better and improve strength. Learn 10 methods of post-processing PLA, PETG, and more! Almost every 3D print requires some sort of post-processing after it\u2019s printed. There\u2019s a lot of information and advice about post-processing 3D prints out there, but here we\u2019ve gathered the most important techniques in [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"kbtopic":[137],"kbtag":[126,80,443,287,94],"class_list":["post-164950","kb","type-kb","status-publish","hentry","kbtopic-case","kbtag-3d-printing","kbtag-fdm","kbtag-finishing","kbtag-pla","kbtag-post-processing"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v27.1 (Yoast SEO v27.1.1) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>10 Methods for 3D Printing Post-Processing (PLA &amp; More) - FacFox Docs<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"3D printing post-processing can make your work look better and improve strength. Learn 10 methods of post-processing PLA, PETG, and more! 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