{"id":164795,"date":"2022-05-20T11:21:05","date_gmt":"2022-05-20T03:21:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/?post_type=kb&#038;p=164795"},"modified":"2022-08-12T11:10:49","modified_gmt":"2022-08-12T03:10:49","slug":"3d-printing-overhang-how-to-3d-print-overhangs","status":"publish","type":"kb","link":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/kb\/3d-printing-overhang-how-to-3d-print-overhangs","title":{"rendered":"3D Printing Overhang: How to 3D Print Overhangs"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"container container--l container--space\">\n<div class=\"section\">\n<p class=\"paragraph paragraph--emphasized\">A necessary evil of 3D prints is overhangs. Learn all of our tips and tricks for mastering extreme 3D printing overhangs!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"listicle-header__content\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">What Is It?<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__image\">\n<div class=\"image image--center image--rounded image--loaded\">\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/de56f17fe83f82e9.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An 80\u00b0 overhang being printed without supports (Source: Atom 3D Printer via YouTube)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>We\u2019ve all been there \u2013 scratching our heads at a print with an ugly, drooping overhang. It\u2019s the bane of all designers who work in\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/fused-deposition-modeling-fdm-3d-printing-simply-explained\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">FDM 3D printing<\/a>: the underside of a slope, printed in midair without any direct support.<\/p>\n<p>Overhangs arise from the common layer-by-layer approach in 3D printing. When you get to the underside of a slope, like the one pictured above, each subsequent layer must protrude slightly beyond the layer before it. This is where things can get messy: Some of the plastic extends into thin air, and gravity will start to pull it down. Depending on the angle of the slope being printed, we can characterize the overhang as being printable or extreme.<\/p>\n<p>The 45\u00b0 rule is a handy way of understanding overhangs. This rule states that slopes less than or equal to 45 degrees can be printed cleanly; anything steeper may require\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/1\/3d-printing-support-structures\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">supports<\/a>. Supports aren\u2019t ideal, as they can mar prints, increase hassle, print times, and material consumption, as well as even limit printable geometries (e.g. internal cavities).<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/4fc280866a7ef5a0.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"187\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Overhangs less than 45 degrees are typically safely printable (Source: Rigid.ink)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Of course, the 45-degree rule is more of a guideline. For most modern printers, it can even lean on the conservative side. As\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-printer-fans-do-i-really-need-one\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">cooling solutions<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/1\/best-3d-slicer-software-3d-printer\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">slicing software<\/a>\u00a0have improved, so have our abilities to accurately and cleanly produce steep overhangs.<\/p>\n<p>What happens when you print an overhang that is too steep? The result is typically one of two problems:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Drooping:<\/strong>\u00a0This is where the plastic gets pulled down by gravity before it solidifies. You\u2019ll end up with sagging, drooping strands of plastic that hang below where they\u2019re supposed to be.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Curling:<\/strong>\u00a0This is where the plastic is cooled insufficiently and starts to bend upwards. As the model is printing, you\u2019ll notice that some areas of the print have curled above the height of the nozzle. After the print is finished, you\u2019ll have a rough, uneven surface that may look similar to mild drooping.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Here, we\u2019ll take a look at how you can avoid these issues while printing your overhangs. As an added bonus, we\u2019ll show you ways to bypass overhangs, if necessary. By the end, you\u2019ll be well equipped to tackle extreme slopes with confidence.<\/p>\n<p>Let\u2019s get started!<\/p>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xl\">Preparatory Step: Dial in Your Machine<\/h3>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/fe3ccb56d763a4b6.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"558\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A calibration cube for dialing in your 3D printer (Source: Make: via YouTube)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Before optimizing your overhang settings, you\u2019ll first have to optimize your printer\u2019s operation and print settings. This will give you a reliable foundation from which to get your overhangs right.<\/p>\n<p>For starters, make sure your 3D printer is properly calibrated. You can refer to our dedicated guides on\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">extruder calibration<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">complete printer calibration<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>In the printer calibration guide, you\u2019ll also find steps to adjust basic material settings. We\u2019ll be tweaking these settings to improve your overhangs, so make sure that they\u2019re in the right ballpark to start with; you should be able to\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-printer-test-print-10-best-3d-models-to-torture-your-3d-printer\/\">get consistent prints<\/a>\u00a0with your current settings, even if they\u2019re not perfect.<\/p>\n<p>Once your printer and basic settings are set, we can go ahead and get started!<\/p>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"listicle-header__content\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xl\">Tip #1: Dry Your Filament<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__image\">\n<div class=\"image image--center image--rounded image--loaded\">\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/81c917c2f4581d73.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The difference between dry and wet filament (Source: davidpp99 via Reddit)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Wet filament is a notorious cause of many printing imperfections. That\u2019s because most FDM filaments are\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/hygrosopy-3d-printing-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hygroscopic<\/a>, so the materials like to absorb moisture, wreaking havoc on filaments. As plastic polymers, filaments are made of chains of molecules strung together. Moisture introduces water molecules that break up these chains, ruining the plastic and causing a whole slew of problems while printing. For overhangs, in particular, this loss of integrity can exacerbate drooping and surface roughness.<\/p>\n<p>Thankfully, identifying and drying wet filament is a relatively painless process. You can follow our\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/how-to-dry-filament-pla-abs-and-nylon\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dedicated filament drying guide<\/a>, which takes you through common symptoms like \u201cfuzzy\u201d surfaces (shown above) and simple ways to get rid of moisture.<\/p>\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xl\">Tip #2: Lower the Nozzle Temperature<\/h3>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/9cbb2e5d113a718b.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A temperature tower test print (Source: CyrisXD via Reddit)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Both drooping and curling (<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-print-warping-what-it-is-how-to-fix-it\/\">warping<\/a>) are caused by insufficient cooling. To help your printer out, you can try lowering your nozzle temperature.<\/p>\n<p>By lowering the temperature, your printer has to do less work cooling the filament. As such, the plastic will solidify more quickly, resulting in less drooping and curling.<\/p>\n<p>To find the optimum temperature for your material, we recommend printing a temperature tower, such as the one listed\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/the-best-pla-print-temperature-how-to-achieve-it\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">in our PLA print settings article<\/a>. Keep the temperature as low as you can while ensuring sufficient strength, as this will give you the cleanest results. You\u2019ll likely see a dramatic improvement in overhang quality.<\/p>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"listicle-header__content\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xl\">Tip #3: Decrease the Print Speed<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__image\">\n<div class=\"image image--center image--rounded image--loaded\">\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/ea0528a1cd8499e8.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Overhangs are much like bridging: Printing too fast can cause drooping (Source: Ultimaker)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Much like lowering the nozzle temperature, decreasing the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-printing-speed-optimal-settings\/\">print speed<\/a>\u00a0provides more time to cool the plastic. Meanwhile, the slower flow rate takes some strain off of your extruder, allowing you to lower the nozzle temperature even further.<\/p>\n<p>If only small overhangs are suffering, consider bumping up the minimum layer time (just slows down smaller layers). If that doesn\u2019t work, try printing multiple models at once to give each layer more time to cool.<\/p>\n<p>Generally, slower print speeds result in improved print quality. That being said, you have to be careful not to overdo it; printing too slowly, especially on small layers, can cause the hot nozzle to linger for too long, exacerbating overheating artifacts. Play around with your settings to find a happy medium.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Pro Tip:\u00a0<\/strong>In certain cases,\u00a0<em>increasing<\/em>\u00a0print speed is the way to go. This causes the material to get stretched, adding tension that helps a print maintain its shape (much like while\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/bridging-3d-printing-tips-tricks-for-perfect-bridges\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bridging<\/a>). This is especially true if you already have a robust cooling solution (discussed in the next section).<\/p>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"listicle-header__content\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Tip #4: Boost Cooling<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__image\">\n<div class=\"image image--center image--rounded image--loaded\">\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/8126968cbfc940c4.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"659\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Overhangs printed with 100% fan speed (top) and fans off (bottom) (Source: 3D Printerly)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>For so much talk about cooling, we haven\u2019t looked at your fan speed yet! Here, higher is better for overhangs. Still, you\u2019ll want to find a middle ground before layers start to\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-print-delamination-tips-tricks-to-avoid-layer-separation\/#what-is-layer-delamination\">delaminate<\/a>. For PLA, there\u2019s almost no such thing as \u201ctoo much cooling\u201d, while for high-temperature materials like ABS or PC, you\u2019ll have to be more careful.<\/p>\n<p>If even a 100% fan speed doesn\u2019t help, you can consider swapping out your fans and fan ducts. Either go for higher-power fans that pump more air or upgrade to radial fans. These provide improved pressure output, which goes well with better fan ducts for more focused cooling.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.thingiverse.com\/search?q=fan+ducts&amp;type=things&amp;sort=relevant\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Many user-designed ducts are available online<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Pro Tip:\u00a0<\/strong>If your fans can provide powerful cooling across a wide area, consider increasing your print speed. This helps avoid overheating by moving the hot end away, leaving the fans to take care of cooling the plastic.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"listicle-header__content\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xl\">Tip #5: Adjust the Layer Height<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__image\">\n<div class=\"image image--center image--rounded image--loaded\">\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/cdf40a17d03d356f.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"561\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A finer layer height (left) causes each new layer to protrude less (Source: Fabbaloo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Overhangs are challenging due to how they suspend paths in the air. You can decrease this effect by lowering your\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-printer-layer-height-how-much-does-it-matter\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">layer height<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>When you print slopes, you\u2019re really printing stair-stepped layers (pictured above). At finer layer heights, you can fit in more steps to cover the same distance, which means that each layer has to protrude less from the one below it. The result is less suspension per layer, correlating to less drooping.<\/p>\n<div class=\"rich-text__embed\">\n<div class=\"image image--center image--rounded image--loaded\">\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/255184c851308283.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"517\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An overhang printed at 0.3-mm layer height (Source: The 3D Print General via YouTube)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>On the flip side, thicker layers are more rigid. Imagine a thin sheet of paper compared to thick card stock. In 3D printing, it means that thicker layers better resist drooping, even if they protrude more from the layer below. The effect is a consistent slope, even if each layer droops a bit. You can see this in the image above: The shape of the overhang is correct, but every layer has drooped slightly.<\/p>\n<p>The other benefit of thicker layers is that they can sometimes combat curling. While they do increase the amount of cooling required, thicker layers can help press down on the print to keep it from lifting up.<\/p>\n<p>Ultimately, we recommend adjusting your layer height to fit what works best for you depending on the overhang symptoms as well as what your ultimate goals are.<\/p>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"listicle-header__content\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xl\">Tip #6: Tune the Shell Settings<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__image\">\n<div class=\"image image--center image--rounded image--loaded\">\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/0189046b62d6cef2.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shells refers to the walls surrounding infill (Source: Hubs)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>The \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-printing-shells-all-you-need-to-know\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">shell<\/a>\u201d refers to the walls that surround the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/infill-3d-printing-what-it-means-and-how-to-use-it\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">infill<\/a>\u00a0of your print. To dial in your overhangs, there are a few tweaks you can make:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Adjust extrusion width:\u00a0<\/strong>A thicker extrusion width is harder to cool, but it increases overlap with the layer below. Adjust this setting to find a good middle ground.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Optimize wall printing order:\u00a0<\/strong>Most slicers will allow you to specify how your shell is printed. Ideally, you want to print inside walls before outside ones, so that you aren\u2019t starting layers in midair. This will help the overhanging paths \u201chold\u201d onto the inside paths.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Increase the shell<\/strong>\u00a0<strong>paths:<\/strong>\u00a0By increasing the number of paths in your shell, you increase the overlap between each layer. Outer paths will also have more inside paths to \u201chold\u201d onto.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__wrapper\">\n<div class=\"listicle-header__content\">\n<h3 class=\"headline headline--xxl\">Bonus: Avoid Overhangs<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"listicle-header__image\">\n<div class=\"image image--center image--rounded image--loaded\">\n<figure style=\"width: 724px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/dd6e952dbfdf32a4.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"724\" height=\"406\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teardrop shapes allow support-free printing of holes and arches (Source: Wikifactory)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>If none of the above options are appealing, remember that you can always avoid overhangs altogether! This can be done in a number of ways:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Design with overhangs in mind<\/strong><strong>:\u00a0<\/strong>If you\u2019re\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/1\/design-for-additive-manufacturing-dfam-simply-explained\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">designing your own model<\/a>, think about how your part will be\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-print-orientation-troubleshooting\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">oriented<\/a>\u00a0to avoid overhangs as much as possible. Consider replacing fillets with chamfers or place structures beneath overhangs to support them. For horizontal holes, try using a teardrop shape to avoid drooping at the top (pictured above). When you encounter harsh overhangs, you can make them into straight bridges, as bridges are much easier to print.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/3bfd1a4053ed6864.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sample shapes reoriented to eliminate overhangs (Source: Wikifactory)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Switch up the orientation:<\/strong>\u00a0Not all print orientations are created equal. Depending on your model, certain setups will result in dramatically reduced overhangs. The above picture illustrates this well: The letters \u2018T\u2019 and \u2018E\u2019, which require supports in their original orientation, can be reoriented to eliminate overhangs outright.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<figure style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/img.facfox.com\/imgs\/2022\/06\/01\/40cab75cb1c2731a.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"594\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An X-Wing from Star Wars, printed in two pieces to avoid overhangs (Source: E-Motion Robotics)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Split up the model:\u00a0<\/strong>Sometimes, overhangs are inevitable on a complex model. That\u2019s when you can consider\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/how-to-split-3d-model-stl-file-for-3d-printing\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">splitting it into multiple files<\/a>. As shown above, this can make previously challenging prints a piece of cake. Once printed, simply\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/gluing-3d-printed-best-ways-bond-3d-prints\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">glue the pieces<\/a>\u00a0back together!<\/li>\n<li><strong>Use supports:<\/strong>\u00a0If you really need it, don\u2019t shy away from using supports! In particular, you can consider using\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-printer-support-material-which-one-to-use-for-my-project\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dissolvable supports<\/a>\u00a0for more complex structures that can be washed away, leaving cleaner bottom surfaces.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>There you have it! Now you know how to conquer extreme overhangs, along with some ideas if you want to avoid them instead. For more like this, don\u2019t forget to check out our\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/1\/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">comprehensive troubleshooting guide<\/a>!<\/p>\n<p>Happy printing!<\/p>\n<p>Source: <a href=\"https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-printing-overhang-how-to-master-overhangs-exceeding-45\/\">https:\/\/all3dp.com\/2\/3d-printing-overhang-how-to-master-overhangs-exceeding-45\/<\/a><\/p>\n<div class=\"aside-layout\">\n<div class=\"aside-layout__aside\">\n<div class=\"aside-layout__aside-content\">\n<div class=\"toc-layout\">\n<div id=\"toc\" class=\"toc-layout__toc\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A necessary evil of 3D prints is overhangs. Learn all of our tips and tricks for mastering extreme 3D printing overhangs! What Is It? We\u2019ve all been there \u2013 scratching our heads at a print with an ugly, drooping overhang. It\u2019s the bane of all designers who work in\u00a0FDM 3D printing: the underside of a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"kbtopic":[],"kbtag":[126,343],"class_list":["post-164795","kb","type-kb","status-publish","hentry","kbtag-3d-printing","kbtag-overhang"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v27.1 (Yoast SEO v27.1.1) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>3D Printing Overhang: How to 3D Print Overhangs - FacFox Docs<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A necessary evil of 3D prints is overhangs. Learn all of our tips and tricks for mastering extreme 3D printing overhangs! What Is It? We\u2019ve all been there A necessary evil of 3D prints is overhangs. 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