{"id":164686,"date":"2022-04-28T17:49:16","date_gmt":"2022-04-28T09:49:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/?post_type=kb&p=164686"},"modified":"2022-08-12T11:37:38","modified_gmt":"2022-08-12T03:37:38","slug":"the-best-abs-print-bed-temperature-settings","status":"publish","type":"kb","link":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/kb\/the-best-abs-print-bed-temperature-settings","title":{"rendered":"The Best ABS Print & Bed Temperature Settings"},"content":{"rendered":"
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The best print temperature for ABS isn’t as elusive as you may think. Read on to learn all about ABS print and bed temperature settings!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, abbreviated as ABS, is a common plastic that\u2019s found all around us, with one of the most well-known uses being Lego bricks. Its properties, such as high strength and good temperature resistance, make it a good choice for many applications.<\/p>\n

The material also offers the possibility of a good surface finish.\u00a0ABS reacts to acetone<\/a>, which tends to smooth and polish the surface. It\u2019s also a material that\u2019s easy to sand, so there\u2019s quite a few options for post-processing it.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, it can be a little tricky to print with. One issue you may face while printing ABS is that it\u2019s hard to get it to stick to the bed. Printed parts tend to warp at the sides and corners, and the\u00a0fumes<\/a>\u00a0generated can be unpleasant. But we\u2019ll get to all of that soon enough!<\/p>\n

In this article, we\u2019ll cover the most important aspects you need to be aware of when opting to print with\u00a0ABS<\/a>, paying special attention to the temperatures that help yield the best results. While we\u2019ll be going over general settings, note that it\u2019s always useful to check the manufacturer\u2019s guidelines.<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s get started!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Warping Is the Devil<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Warping can ruin your prints (Source: Ultimaker)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Before we jump into the \u201chow-to\u201d, we should establish what the term \u201cwarping\u201d actually means.<\/p>\n

When a filament is heated in the hot end, it tends to expand. Once in a molten state, the plastic is deposited onto the build platform layer by layer. Then, it solidifies and contracts as it cools. Some plastics expand and contract a lot more than others.<\/p>\n

Except for the most recently deposited layer, the rest will be cooler than those nearest the build surface, which are typically kept warm to maintain bed adhesion. It\u2019s the difference between the cooler, contracting layers above the surface and the still warm, expanded layers against the surface that can cause a print to\u00a0peel off the plate<\/a>. It\u2019s a bit like setting a sponge on a table and pinching it at the top: The bottom edges will rise up towards the point of the pinch.<\/p>\n

Warping is common among ABS and nylon filaments, as they have a greater tendency to expand and contract than your regular\u00a0PLA<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Heater Settings<\/h3>\n
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Compared to PLA, ABS is a bit trickier to print (Source: Sculpteo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Printing with ABS can be a bit hard, but with the right settings, it can be quite simple. Let\u2019s take a look at how to tune your heaters for ABS.<\/p>\n

Hot End<\/strong><\/h3>\n

ABS melts somewhere between 210 and 250 \u00b0C. If nothing specific is indicated by the manufacturer, you should be able to play around with temperature settings in this range. We find, for example, that 235 \u00b0C does a pretty good job.<\/p>\n

If you set the nozzle too hot, you\u2019ll notice a lot of\u00a0strings<\/a>\u00a0created between the walls of your part. If you go too cold, you might run into\u00a0under-extrusion<\/a>. Regardless, it\u2019s always useful to run a few\u00a0test prints<\/a>\u00a0to try different temperature settings.<\/p>\n

Heated Bed<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The purpose of a heated bed is to aid with print-plate adhesion. Yet, there\u2019s a balance between setting the temperature high enough for a print to stick and keeping it low enough so as not to warp.<\/p>\n

The temperature at which a plastic changes phase from a solid to a more rubbery state (but not yet a liquid) is known as the\u00a0glass transition temperature<\/a>\u00a0(scientifically notated as\u00a0T<\/em>g<\/sub>). You\u2019ll want to set the heated bed temperature just above that point.<\/p>\n

For ABS, the glass transition temperature is 105 \u00b0C, so a bed temperature of 110 \u00b0C should suffice.<\/p>\n

Other Settings<\/h3>\n
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Give the draft shield a go to improve your prints (Source: All3DP)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Slicers<\/a>, like Cura or PrusaSlicer, have a number of other settings that can be tweaked to your advantage:<\/p>\n