{"id":164182,"date":"2021-12-16T16:50:24","date_gmt":"2021-12-16T08:50:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/?post_type=kb&p=164182"},"modified":"2022-08-12T17:12:51","modified_gmt":"2022-08-12T09:12:51","slug":"3d-print-stringing-5-easy-ways-to-prevent-it","status":"publish","type":"kb","link":"https:\/\/facfox.com\/docs\/kb\/3d-print-stringing-5-easy-ways-to-prevent-it","title":{"rendered":"3D Print Stringing: 5 Easy Ways to Prevent It"},"content":{"rendered":"

In 3D printing, stringing is a common problem, especially with flexible materials. Overcome this issue with these five simple solutions!<\/p>\n

As an FDM printer\u00a0nozzle<\/a>\u00a0travels across an open space to get to the next point, it may sometimes ooze melted plastic, which then solidifies and sticks to the printed parts. This is 3D printer stringing, and it leaves your 3D printed parts with thin strands of plastic that resemble cobwebs or strands of hair.<\/p>\n

In theory, your nozzle should not deposit plastic as it travels through open air (otherwise known as a travel move). However, molten plastic will often leak onto parts where it shouldn\u2019t, leaving your prints with what looks like \u201cwhiskers\u201d.<\/p>\n

The leading causes of stringing in FDM printers are using incorrect retraction settings and setting the hot end temperature too high.\u00a0PETG<\/a>, for example, requires relatively high temperatures for melting and is\u00a0notorious for stringing<\/a>.\u00a0PLA<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0ABS<\/a>, however, are also known to have this issue.<\/p>\n

Luckily, there are some ways of preventing 3D printer stringing. Let\u2019s take a look!<\/p>\n

Enable Retraction<\/h3>\n
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When enabling retraction, the melt zone goes up (Source: SublimeLayers)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Enabling retraction is the most common method used to combat 3D printer stringing. Enabling retraction means that, where the extruder has to cross an empty space, the filament will be pulled back \u2013 just a little bit \u2013 by the feeder. This prevents the molten plastic from trailing behind as the printer head moves because the \u201cpulling back\u201d action serves as a countermeasure against oozing. Once the extruder has arrived at the next location, the filament is pushed back out, and printing resumes from the nozzle again.<\/p>\n

In most slicing applications, like\u00a0Cura<\/a>, retraction is usually enabled by default. However, it\u2019s always a good idea to confirm that this is true, especially when you start experiencing stringing. If the retraction setting is turned on and you\u2019re still experiencing 3D printer stringing, you may then need to go into the nitty-gritty of the retraction settings:<\/p>\n

Retraction Distance<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Retraction distance is probably the most critical retraction setting, as it determines how far the filament travels. Generally, if your nozzle can retract further, it means you\u2019re less likely to encounter 3D printer stringing. But again, if you retract too far, the filament may be unavailable in the hot end when you need to resume printing.<\/p>\n

The retraction distance may vary depending on the type of extruder you\u2019re using. However, an extruder on a Bowden setup will typically require a higher retraction distance, owing to the longer distance between the nozzle and the drive gear.<\/p>\n

To determine the correct retraction distance, you may have to perform test prints. Try this\u00a0retraction test print<\/a>: It prints quickly and does not require too much filament.<\/p>\n

Retraction Speed<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The\u00a0retraction speed<\/a>\u00a0determines how quickly the filament is retracted. A faster retraction speed suggests that 3D printer stringing is less likely to occur because the filament is pulled back fast enough before it starts oozing.\u00a0However, when the retraction speed is too fast, it may cause the filament to disconnect with the other portion inside the nozzle. Worse, a quick movement of the drive gear may grind the molten plastic and jam the nozzle or create areas where the filament is not deposited.<\/p>\n

Therefore, you should aim to find a sweet spot (between slow and fast), where retraction is optimal. This sweet spot may vary depending on the printing material.\u00a0Perform a few test prints to determine the ideal retraction speed.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re still unsure of what to do, check out\u00a0Simplify3D<\/a>. This program comes with pre-configured profiles that are a great place to start if you\u2019re looking for a retraction speed that works best.<\/p>\n

What Settings Should You Use?<\/strong><\/h3>\n
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Different retraction settings can significantly increase or decrease blobs (Source: Domoticx)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

To determine the optimal retraction values, you must first know the extruder you will be using and the material you will be printing with.<\/p>\n

Materials like ABS and PLA will do well with a speed of 40 to 60 mm\/s and a retraction distance of 0.5 to 1.0 mm on direct-drive extruders. On the other hand, extruders on Bowden setups will generally require a speed of 30 to 50 mm\/s, with a retraction distance of around 2.0 mm. These figures are not constant and can change based on many variables.<\/p>\n

At the end of the day, when retraction is done correctly, it\u2019s effective at ending stringing, and it\u2019ll give you more control over your prints. Some slicer programs, like Simplify3D, come with \u201ccoast\u201d and \u201cwipe\u201d parameters that are powerful tools for further dialing in your retraction values.<\/p>\n

Set the Right Temperature<\/h3>\n
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This nifty model will help you find the perfect temperature (Source: dede67 via Thingiverse)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As the temperature increases, the printing material becomes more liquefied and is more likely to drip from the nozzle, even after adjusting the retraction settings. A lower temperature reduces this likelihood. However, you must be careful to not set the temperature too low. Very low temperatures could make the filament not melt enough, which could create issues with extrusion.<\/p>\n

An ideal temperature depends on the printing material and other printing settings. However, it\u2019s generally recommended to lower the temperature once you notice stringing. You can try reducing the nozzle temperature by 5 to 10 \u00b0C increments, but never reduce the temperature below the manufacturer\u2019s minimum specifications. These are the commonly recommended temperatures for some of the most common filaments:<\/p>\n